Just Back: A Hotel-Within-a-Restaurant in Rome

Stepping into Hotel Maalot felt like entering Alice’s Wonderland, because nothing was what it seemed. Although we were on one of Rome’s most heavily congested streets just around the corner from the Trevi Fountain, we walked into a haven of tranquility. Then we found ourselves not in a luxury boutique hotel, but in a restaurant. A hotel in a restaurant? It’s an original concept, and we were thoroughly intrigued as a hostess led us through the Don Pasquale restaurant into the hotel.

Checking-in at reception, which has comfortable armchairs, a red-leather desk and a marble fireplace, Hotel Manager Jonida Hazizi ([email protected]; +39-329-474-3273) told us that Maalot rhymes with Camelot and that, like the Vilòn, which is another of the quartet of Shedir Collection hotels in Rome, it is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (www.hotelamaalot.com; +39-06-878-087).

In the late 1800s, this old palazzo in the bustling heart of Rome was the home of Gaetano Donizetti, one of Italy’s best-loved opera composers. Major attractions like the Coliseum, the Spanish Steps and Piazza Navona are all within a 15-minute walk, with St. Peter’s and the Vatican just twice that distance. Nice Touch: A box on the reception desk with a selection of different strength eyeglasses for forgetful guests.

The atmosphere is that of a cool design home spilling over with comforts, color and theater, like the tongue-in-cheek faux classical paintings by Argentine artist Stanley Gonczanski that literally cover the restaurant walls. These amusing portraits go from a lady with a lobster on her head, to a prince holding a feather duster, to a lady in a crinoline dangling a large birdcage holding a top-hatted gentleman. The art continues into the intimate bar, which has an eye-catching mirrored wall of bottles and, like the restaurant, vibrates with colored mood lighting and candles from sundown. Both draw a mix of hotel guests, regular locals and drop-in visitors at all hours.

The Don Pasquale restaurant (named after one of Donizetti’s best-known operas) has al fresco seating on the street, but the winter garden dining room is the showpiece of the hotel with its elegant skylight, magnificent chandelier and vibrant turquoise banquettes. Helmed by Chef Domenico Boschi (+39-333-240-5387) the all-day menu, which changes seasonally and starts at noon, has playful takes on evergreens like cannelloni stuffed with eggplant parmigiana and ravioli with a filling of coratella lamb offal, while the carbonara, amatricana and cacio e pepe are local classics; plus, there are also club sandwiches and burgers. 

We were tempted by the tiramisu, but Domenico suggested his caramel cream with cereals and raspberry coulis, which was a brilliant balance of sweet and sharp. Breakfast goes from continental to porridge, eggs benedict and avocado toast with salmon, and the home-baked breads and patisserie are served from bakery baskets by the attentive restaurant staff.

The four floors have 30 rooms, from Superior to Deluxe to Prestige, with three Junior Suites, four One-bedroom Suites, the Donizetti Suite and the Terrace Suite. All have queen beds, are individually styled with fabric-covered walls, have generously padded bedheads in bright fantasy fabrics, and splashes of jewel colors on chairs and cushions; the soft drinks in the minibars are complimentary. The entry-level Superior Rooms measure 290 square feet, and we liked how the afternoon sun poured into No. 201.

Despite being in the center of Rome, the soundproofing is such that there is no noise from the busy surrounding streets, and for families there is one set of connecting rooms: a Superior and a Prestige. Bathrooms are in striking black and white marble with double sinks (the Junior Suites have just one) and the large walk-in showers have soft lighting and marble seats. The One-bedroom Suites are a good choice for honeymooners with their high ceilings, four-poster beds and a Hollywood-style makeup mirror in the walk-in dressing room. The open-plan Junior Suites have living and night areas and can sleep up to three.

The Donizetti and Terrace Suites take up the top fourth floor, each with two full bathrooms, separate living and bedrooms and walk-in dressing rooms. The Terrace Suite has a small terrace with a table and two chairs set among Rome’s rooftops, and the bedroom has a relaxing corner with two armchairs. The Donizetti Suite is the largest, measures 700 square feet, has a library in the slanted-ceiling corridor, and can take two single beds in the living room. Like the Terrace Suite, it can sleep up to four. 

Guests staying in the Junior Suites, One-bedroom Suites, Donizetti Suite and Terrace Suite can request complimentary airport pick-ups from the front-desk staff ([email protected]). We learned that actress-producer Drew Barrymore and her family have stayed, and that the hotel is pet-friendly for a nightly surcharge. The small gym, with Technogym equipment, is for hotel guests only. Top Tip: With Rome’s high-season from June-July to September-October it is advisable to book at least a few months in advance. For VIP requests, reach out to General Manager Cristiano Zucchiati ([email protected]; +39-338-318-3005) or Hotel Manager Jonida.

Cristiano told us that 80 percent of guests are Americans, mostly in the 40 to 60 age group and traveling with families, and that the most frequently heard comments are about the “great vibes” they get from the old palazzo, and how the staff go out of their way to make them feel at home. Repeaters, he added, are usually happy to visit the great monuments of Ancient Rome all over again, but that for more curious guests the front-desk staff sets up visits to under-the-radar places and to unusual experiences, with choices for all demographics.  

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